Our Care Schedule for our Puppies

5 1/2 weeks of age: Give first combination vaccine. (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza, Coronavirus)
7 1/2weeks of age: Give second combination vaccine.
12 weeks of age: Give the third combination injection and possibly a LYME Vaccine inoculation. Generally a LYME vaccine is then repeated two weeks later, then once a year.
16 weeks of age: Give the last combination vaccine.
12 to 16 weeks of age: Rabies vaccine is given. (Local and State laws apply regarding Rabies vaccine since this can be a human disease, too. Your veterinarian will tell you the proper time intervals for booster vaccines for Rabies.)

Multivalent vaccines are those that have more than one
disease antigen combined into one injection.
A typical multivalent vaccine is the DHLPPCv vaccine for dogs. Instead of giving six different injections, all these "vaccines" or antigens can be given in a single small volume injection. Certainly this is easier on the dog than getting six separate injections.

DHLPPCv stands for:

D... Canine Distemper Virus... a dangerous viral infection. "Distemper" is an odd name for a viral infection and this disease has no relationship to nor connection with a dog's temperament.
H... Hepatitis...a viral infection caused by two related viruses that mainly affects the liver.
L... Leptospirosis... a bacterial infection affecting the kidneys. This class of bacteria can infect humans, cows, dogs, pigs and other mammals.
P... Parainfluenza... a virus that along with the Hepatitis virus can cause upper respiratory infections.
P... Parvovirus... a severe and often fatal virus affecting the lining of the intestinal tract.
Cv... Coronavirus... is very similar to the Parvovirus, can be very severe, but has a somewhat different effect on the intestinal tract and generally is not fatal.

Most breeders will assume that a puppy has worms and will worm them automatically. Not all puppies will pass worms. Worming should be done according to the product or by a vets supervision. Many breeders have particular brand of worming product they prefer to use. Most worming can be started anywhere around the 2-4 weeks. Puppies need to be weighed before being wormed in order to make sure proper dosage is being given for their weight. Whatever product is used, worming needs to be repeated usually two weeks after the initial treatment. The first treatment kills any adult worms. The second treatment kills any new worms that may have hatched after the initial treatment.

Why so many vaccinations? Good question! The reason is that no one can be sure that the pup will actually mount a good antibody response to the disease just from one vaccination. The age of the pup and just how much immunity it has received from its mother will complicate the "probability of protection". So... if the pup has lots of immunity (called PASSIVE IMMUNITY) that was borrowed from the mother during early nursing, this immunity will actually interfere with the pup's ability to make its own immunity from the vaccine challenge. The idea is to get the vaccine into the pup just as soon as the mother's passive immunity wears off (NOW the pup is very susceptible to sickness if it is exposed to the disease!) so that the pup can make more lasting immunity of its own. The precise time when a pup can respond well to a vaccine is variable... it might occur at 6 weeks of age or might be 12 weeks. So to be as safe as possible, why not start vaccinating at 6 weeks and end at 16 weeks? Almost 99 per cent of puppies will develop a good immune level to the various disease from a vaccine schedule similar to the one above.

I have a little list to give you before pup arrives. I will get into food and needs closer to meeting, but here is a start.

They are eating Meunster Natural Dog Food, For Mothers and Puppies. This is a top notch premium food, find it at a Pet's Mart, Pet Co or specialty store. You absolutely cannot change food, I will give instructions on changing later, but for a month nothing added and nothing new. It is all they have ever had and any treat or extra stuff can give them the runs. A runny pup can cost thousands. Dehydration etc.. You will not find a better food, don't gag when you see the price, it is not forever, but a healthy start can mean the difference between a healthy dog or problems later. I am adding crummy canned food I will give you when we meet, just to help inspire appetite. When they leave their siblings the lack of competition sometimes makes them lackluster eaters, this will help that. It is rare, but you don't want any problems. If your vet or buddy tells you to change food right away please do not. You can do this later by mixing small amounts of new with old food. Over a period of a month you can change a pup over to a new food and not hurt them.

Crate's are great, X pens are better. I like the exercise pens as you can spread them out to 6 foot around or make them a small crate type enclosure. You can also get them short enough so you can reach over the top. Not so claustrophobic, easier to transport as they fold up. You can put them in a yard and contain your pup, while still allowing them play time. No exposure to strange dogs or strange dog poop until rabies shot at 12 weeks, so a travelling enclosure is a lifesaver. Find them at tractor supply.

Toys are great. I like the stuffing free kind. Anything with stuffing will end up looking like a snow storm in your house. No rawhide or chewies for the first month.

The babies like to sleep on something. If you do not provide a towel or bed, you will find them either in their food dish or your shoe. I know this from experience.

Anytime a baby wakes up or eats, outside they go. A poop will come, the pee is instant, but they need to run around for a minute before pooping. Take the minute.

No leash needed for a while. They are way too young now, they will follow your feet anyway, good luck getting pictures as they will not go away if you are there.

I like the rolled leather collars. This comes later, but they never seem to chaff dogs.

Do not bath them all the time. Rinse if needed, but constant soapy baths cause natural oils to go away and can give you an itchy pup.

Nails once a week, they are all wonderful about this and I will show you how I do it.

You cannot use flea spray or flea shampoo until a pup is 16 weeks. I will be giving you a pill, Cap Star, it will kill every egg and flea on them in 10 minutes for 24 hours. If you have an infestation(This is Texas, Fleas are everywhere), you can get another Cap Star from your vet and control until 4 months when you start a heartworm, flea, tick monthly program.